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23rd May 2012
Hiking - Walking: Lac des Bouillouses
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Wednesday 23rd May 2012 – walking ***** sunny :)

Yes! That’s more like it - woke up to blue skies :) The high peaks have still got cloud round them but the rest of the sky is clear. It blew a gale in the night and unbelievably there was hardly any snow left on the slopes around us. We drove down to the Casino supermarket and did some shopping then drove up a road out of Mont Louis to the site classe des Bouillouses. The road goes up through the Forest to the dam and reservoir - Lac des Bouillouses. As it seems to be very organised with a camp site at the bottom, bus stops, hotel and various places to stay, we thought it would be a waste of such a natural place but we were completely wrong! The site is not accessible by car in July and August because they want to preserve the site so cars have to park and visitors come up by shuttle bus. We were lucky to have easy access and were able to park easily - although not stay :(. We had a look round and realised that the ski slope in front of us, with the chair lift going up, was actually the back of the slopes we parked next to last night! I went to the Tourist information and the lady was very helpful, giving me leaflets and making suggestions for our walk. I asked if she could tell us of anywhere we could park for the night and she said that the camp site at the bottom wasn’t open but we could park there by the river – so that’s later organised too:) It is a very special place and the walk we chose to do was amazing – a hike around 9 etangs (lakes) with an option to do an extra loop to make it 12. We packed our lunch and set off – glad to be doing something at last! The reservoir alone is a wonderful site with snow covered mountains at the far end. We had to start the hike by walking past the surprisingly tasteful hotel building and then were straight into scrambling up the middle of a water fall – no walking up the side, the yellow stripe marking our route went right up the middle! Thank goodness for waterproof walking boots! When we got to the top – at least half an hour - we could see the first of the etangs over on the right. Then a little bit further and we were at the Etang Negre – it was the most beautiful sight, like glass, with snow and mountains all around. You really did have to pinch yourself that you could be somewhere so remote and naturally beautiful completely on your own! We decided to eat our lunch here and make the most of it :) We did pass a few walkers during the afternoon but not very many. We followed the yellow stripe really well until we came to a snowy plateau when the markers were obviously under the snow. We didn’t have a clue which way to go so tried to follow some other footprints but that didn’t work too well. Then I found a blue stripe so we decided to follow that instead – thinking that was probably the loop to see 12 lacs instead of 9. The detour was well worth it with more spectacular scenery, unusual birds (lesser grey shrike and wheatear), a fantastic fast flowing river/waterfall and water meadows. We were walking down a gorse covered bank when we saw 3 deer and sat and watched them for ages until they finally realised we were there and ran off into the forest :) The blue stripe kept us going through all this varied terrain and amazingly we did follow it back to the reservoir – but it definitely wasn’t the 12 lake route and goodness knows which walk it was but it finished us off for sure! We walked over 6 miles, were out 6 ½ hours and only really stopped for lunch and for me to take photos. Today definitely made up for all the inactivity in the rain because it was a tough hike! We drove down to the camp site and got prime position right on the river. No sooner had we stopped the engine than we saw a bullfinch! An elderly couple arrived in their camper van so we have some company tonight – then after we had had our tea 2 cars arrived with some teenagers complete with tents and booze! They wandered off over the fields and made their camp and a fire – they must be completely bonkers because it is only about 8 degrees at night up here! I think the vodka will keep them warm – hopefully we won’t be able to hear them!










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